I was reminded by one of my readers that I am woefully behind on posts for the blog. He noted that updates have appeared on Facebook a-la Duckworks page but no blog posts have been forthcoming. Touche I say. It seems that when I get in a productive phase, it's hard to sit down and keep up with the documentation. Somehow a picture update of Facebook is about all I can muster some days. Well, here goes.
One of my biggest worries was figuring out the new to me rigging on Shallow Minded. It turns out that things were better than I thought. I did need some new line, but not all that much. Reading Phil Bolger's running rigging list turned out to be very enlightening. He does have a way with words. A simple reading of his description was all I needed to get going.
Here is a quick look at the peak and throat halyards. These lines really need to be replaced at some point. I decided that I have enough expenses this time such as replacing anchor lines and chain. Next year we'll update all the running rigging that has not been so far changed.
I was taken aback a bit to note that no jiffy reefing had been installed. Lord knows, when things are going to pot weather wise it's not a good time to have to makeshift the reefing. Here's my solution. Three check blocks and three cleats with 5/16th line attached forms the simple bases of my solution. Note that I moved the blocks back to make sure I had a pull out as well as a pull down for the points. A simple hook on a strong strap eye composes the tack connection. It's surprising how nicely the luff stays tight with simple downhaul on the boom. The lacing doesn't seem necessary once the tension is applied. I used Amsteel (Dynema) 1/4 inch line for the lacing.
All the sails are now up and functional. After finding the screecher thanks to a quick reply by Connie McBride, the former owner, I found everything in good order for deployment.
I added these fittings so as to have a stable lower guy for the spinnaker pole. The so called fore and aft guys go to each side of the boat and are cleated near the mid-point of the boat The three guy assembly comes together at a ring which has a clip on it to clip in the sail. The spinnaker clips to the ring and the pole is push out to about 9-10 feet to make a luff long enough for the resultant fore-triangle. Sheets lead back on each side so as to sheet the sail properly for reaching sheet angles. All-in-all, it seems to work very well. Not near as fussy as I had anticipated. Thanks to the designer who made this easy for me.
As for the mizzen mast I have cut and labeled all the necessary lines They include a halyard, luff lacing, sheet and down-haul. These are all carefully stowed in a separate bag which will be used for protection at the base of the mast when anchored.
This is the tack hook that serves as a reefing tack as well. Note the plastic liner applied to the boom jaws. The riding up and down is better now. One still has to raise and lower the yard, for instance and near horizontal angles so as to not scar the mast finish. It is absolutely essential to loosen the peak halyard in order to get a tight luff (boom being raised a bit so as to apply down-haul for maximum luff tension).
The more I drill down on the details, the more I know how important it is to cover every eventuality in terms of design as well as repair and remediation. I am, as they say, deep into the weeds already!
The dinghy refinishing project is coming along nicely. All rough seams are faired with Total Boat epoxy fairing compound. I like it!
I am applying the final coat of Interlux 2000/2001 Interprotect to the exterior surfaces. I found this needs to be diluted nearly to 30 percent for good coverage. I have since sprayed a coat of Interlux Epoxy Primekote. I diluted this 30 percent, e.g. 600 cc 404 base and 200cc reactor with 400 cc Interlux 2316. The undiluted mix (mixed with a drill driven mixer needs to sit for 20 minutes. With the gun (DeVilbiss 670) set at mid pressure (about 35 lbs) I got a very nice wet out. I believe this will serve well as a base for the final coat topside of Perfection as well as the barrier coat below the water line. Stay tuned for marking the waterline with a laser level. By the way, the formula (or at least one method to figure percentage) goes like this X-solution volume=.3X E.G. divide the undiluted solution by .70 to obtain the total volume of diluted solution. Simply subtract the undiluted volume for how much diluent to add.
About spray gun choices. Many are attracted to the idea of HVLP for maximum use of product with minimal overspray and loss as well as environmental reasons. HVLP designation requires the limiting of pressure in the atomizing head to 10 PSI. This is NOT enough pressure to atomize properly any paint let alone heavy paints like primers. The Devilbiss 670 is listed as a near HVLP. It 's head pressure runs around 12 plus pounds which does not meet designation but is sufficient to atomize the product and apply a reasonably dispersed layer of "dots" to the surface. A pressure adjustment meter at the gun is a must. The Devilbiss 670 comes with an adjustment gauge with a blue area indicating he safe pressure area. Too much pressure causes over-spray. Too little won't get the product through. If the tip starts to clog with a sputtering sound, that is because the product has not been diluted sufficiently. Lower pressures and more dilution gives a nice even wet out. .
I use a 18 CFM Ingersol Rand air compressor with 1/2 inch fittings. I have a Moto-Guard 1 micron filter in line that uses M-723 toilet paper like filters to remove all water oil and particulate mater. I change this regularly. I haven't had much luck with the gun side filters. The Moto-Guard seems to be adequate. I try to spray on days that are above 70 degrees and as close to 60 percent humidity (or lower) as possible.
When spraying primers, I use a 1.8mm tip. This is the larges tip offered with the DeVilbiss 670. I would prefer a 2.3mm tip where upon I could dilute the product a little less. When spraying finish paints I use a 1.4mm tip and dilute for around 18 seconds on the Zahn cup. This ends up being around 25 percent dilution.
I use MEK to clean up with. It is much cheaper than the proprietary brands like Interlux and is very powerful. I wipe down with Interlux 202 before and after sanding before the initial paint coat. MEK would work as well for a good degreaser.
Why would I not roll and tip. Quality! I like a very nice smooth finish. To me the best way to get that is to spray. I spray everything including bottom coat. Yes, thin with Interlux 216 and you get a VERY smooth finish. Of course on work boats like Shallow Minded everything is rolled. It's just not worth the hassle to try to protect the trailer. On the SeaPearl and the dinghy, everything is sprayed.
