Getting to know the Garmin 741xs

The Garmin 741xs is a leap into twenty first century marine guidance systems.  Since I had to buy a chart plotter e.g having sold Belle with its Garmin 198C I naturally wanted to see what today's technology had to offer.  And it's pretty spectacular.  We all are used to the gestures used to pan and zoom our smart phones.  Well, the Garmin 741xs and its contemporaries  have made parallel steps forward in technology.  Not only are the charts detailed and up to day (this unit has all the G2 charts for US coastal waters and the Bahamas as well as Lakes and rivers) it is fully touch screen.  The old rocker switch is gone.  Just pan and zoom as you would on the smart screen on your smart phone.  I elected to pass on the Radar element for now.  When we move toward northern waters where summer fog can blindside you, I will probably indulge.  I would probably sooner spend the money on radar than an AIS transceiver.  Although announcing our location, heading and speed to larger ships would be helpful.  

Here I am demonstrating the Garmin Helm app on my Iphone 6+. It is connected via WiFi to the 741xs making the Iphone a second station for the 741xs.  All commands and gestures are available on both devices.  Route planning and way point plotting can be done on the Iphone and uploaded to the 741xs for implementation as an active route.  All instrumentation and all the features of the unit are available on the Iphone. 

I commandeered this 12 amp 12 volt power supply to run the mapping unit for study and practice.  I went ahead and labeled the NMEA 0183 ports 1 and 2 talkers and listeners on the wires so installation on the bus in the boat will be a minutes long process.  I don't have any NMEA 2000 devices yet so no plugs or cabling for the back of the unit.  An XM weather satellite device would plug directly into the NMEA 2000 port or if I had a network, into the drop.  

So far I am totally pleased with this device.  I am waiting for the water-tight deck mounting case to install it on Shallow Minded.This unit is certified IPX8 but I wouldn't want waves splashing on the back of the unit.  The case is cut for this unit so with weather seal provided nothing but the face or its cover will be exposed to the elements. 

Hiding the motor wiring: it's done!

Here are the tools I use to cut custom #4 Anchor starter motor cable.  The hydraulic press with its custom die really puts the cable ends on well.  First I trim then end with a knife.  Then I apply NO-OX grease to liberally to the end.  Next the crimper sets the end and finally, glue based heat shrink tubing is applied with the heat gun.  All connections are layered with NO-OX grease.

I am using 5/16 inch x #4 cable ends.  It finishes out nicely.

Here are the pass trough bedded terminals in the starboard cabinet.  They are bedded on the opposite side and are thus water proof.  Cable caps prevent shorts.

A good cable cutter is a must for nicely sheared ends. Cable moves forward under the bed

 through a slot into the aft inside locker

 up to the outside posts

And finally an exit just in front of the motor well

I'm not that happy about this run above the floor.  Unfortunately the previous wiring job of the light circuits in the rear of the boat would have to be replaced.  I am willing to live with a neatened up job for now.

Removing old Dynaplate and repairing hull. Electrical work.

 Now that's a Dynaplate, by Guest.  And it is installed per the factory recommendations.













It is definitely time to take the bull by the horns and remove this old miniature Dynaplate.  It's clear that several problems arose in the installation from not RTFM.  First the plate is mounted way over on the edge where starboard tacks could well take it out of the water.  Second, it's near the center (front to back) of the boat where bottom dragging could remove it and cause a catastrophic leak.  It wasn't installed right in so many ways! Guest has a very nice set of instructions which would have served the installer well if reading was among the skills and efforts.  No back plate was used.  The washers were crushing the plywood.  The ground wire was hooked up to the non-shiny bolt (wrong one, poor conductivity).  The plate was liberally spread with bedding compound.  This destroys a good part of the grounding effect.  The backing plate when bedded with liberal amounts of polyurethane will force the seal down the holes. That's all you need.  Again, in the instructions.  And finally, the bolts having not been protected with antioxidant grease were corroded and had to be sawed off.  Well, it's gone and the holes were over-sized and epoxy poured and sheathed.  I feel better!

My Fein reciprocating saw doing quick work on removing the bolts.

Over-sizing the holes from 1/4 to 3/8 to within an 1/8 inch of the bottom laminate cleans out the hole and makes it ready to pour.  I cleaned it out with a air can. 

Hear is the pitiful remains of the plate gummed up with bedding compound.  I think it was abandoned by the last owner because the cable was hanging loose.  I assume that's what it got a coat of bottom paint (the final insult).

I got working room by removing one end of the fender and dropping the bunk.

The patch is in place and partially set up.  Now I can pour the holes and cap it with a patch.

Meanwhile, I took this opportunity to run new cables under the bed for the outboard starter.  I like things as neat as possible.  The previous cables ended halfway under the mattress and ran over the rear dorade baffle.  Mine will be completely out of site.

I finally got my double pole double throw off-on-off switch from defender.  This is the wiring for the two part masthead light. The middle naturally is off.  Up is the steaming position.  Down is all around anchor.  The power is feed by the anchor light manager box that either turns on at dusk or in the manual position provides power for the steaming light.  I'm rather proud of this solution which allows me to cue up the anchor light when I leave the boat and it turns itself on at dusk if I am not with the boat.  

This is the light sentry box that is the brains of the power options.

The left hand panel has the mounted switch with labels.

I have two of these infrared lights that keep the epoxy layup warm and usually kicks it off in around an hour.  I got full drying in two hours today.  This is the way to go with a winter work schedule!

AS-29 fan and avid blog reader visits the boatyard

Long awaited visit by Bill  and Lydia Henderson with their grand daughters Lily and Lainey.

Not only is Bill a big fan of all things boat building and sailing, he and his wife are ham radio operators. They hail from Cahutta, Georgia near Dalton, Chattanooga and the Georgia-Tennessee border.  Bill has built and is learning to sail a $200 sailboat for which he stitched his own poly-tarp sail.

Karen and I proudly gave the boatyard tour of Shallow Minded, Ember's Watch and the new-to-us SeaPearl 21 which remains yet unnamed.

Speaking of Ember's Watch, Bill Moffitt the builder came by the day before and did a boatyard tour.  We had a great time discussing our plans and dreams.  I love like-minded visitors.  It re-enforces our efforts to get through the outfitting stage and on to the adventure stage.

Karen bought these 60 inch pillows as backrests for the settee.  There are a little on the short side but the next size up would have encroached on the ports.  They were only $20 apiece online.
It's freezing cold in north Georgia right now.  As I said to Karen, the boatyard crew is on strike until the weather improves.

Installing the transducer

There's nothing fun about drilling a hole in the bottom of your boat, especially a BIG hole!  Very careful consideration went into where this hole should be drilled.  It must be relatively close to center, not in an area of turbulence and in a safe place with respect to bottom strikes, bunk boards and lift straps for the travel lift.  I chose a place behind the curve of the hull about 6 inches out from the keel.  It looks like the area is protected.  I routed a cup in the laminate for thickened epoxy.

Here is the hole with hole taped with thick epoxy in the groove.  I saturated the laminate first with thin epoxy. Overnight, the heat lamp kicked it off very nicely.  I then re-drilled the hole and faired it up.  I sanded the top and bottom and clean it off with bleach water then water.  The hole is tangent to the waterline for a strait down look with the fish/depth finder. 

 I had my friend Paul, (the woodworker) help me cut the fairing so the mount would be tangent to the water line.  Trust me, we put a lot of calculation and thought into the building of the jib and securing it for cutting on his band saw.  Unfortunately, there are no pictures of the jig. 

Here is the mounted fairing and transducer well bedded with 3M-5200 and clean up.  It took about 20 minutes to do the caulking and mounting. Then it took about two hours to clean up the mess.  You can't get anything on the crystal which I did accomplish.  I cleaned up the mess with mineral spirits and cleaned the crystal with rubbing alcohol.  

Here is the other split part of the mount all bedded and secured with the transducer nut and the anti-spin bolt.  All aspects of the surfaces are well coated and set in with 3M-5200.  Whew, what a job.  I will install the plug after everything dries.  The paddle wheel sensor for water speed looks a little vulnerable to the carry strap.  I think I will swap out the plug for the paddle wheel after I am in the water. 

It has been a nerve wracking job because of time constraints and worries about 5200 contamination.  I am relieved that it all went relatively well and I am completely certain that no leaks will occur. 

Shallow Minded gets a Dynaplate

The Dynaplate is in.  I feel very confident of the waterproof nature of this installation

Notice the puddles of bedding compound squeezed out from beneath the backing plate.  The same pressure has pushed bedding down the holes around the bolts.  Also notice the shiny bolt on the right in the foreground.  That is the gold plated hardware for conducting the current.

 Here is the hookup.  The #4 cable runs to the negative post of the battery bank.  The copper foil will run directly to the HF antenna base.  The braid will ground the radio itself. 
The bad news is that the old plate needs to have the corroded bolts replaced.  The even worse news is that the plate is directly above one of the bunks.  I will order the replacement bolts and work on a strategy to lift this 8000 lb boat high enough to remove and properly instal the plate.  I can't risk a leak.  The plate has no backing plate and I don't have confidence in the seal.

Shallow Minded gets an electrical upgrade

I finally got the the Blue Sky 3 stage MPPT solar panel charge controller installed.  The installation adding a second charger for a different panel array.  At this time I only have one of the two semi-flexible panels installed.  Another will be installed suspended on the Bimini.  All wire is #10 marine grade up to the box.

This is the charge control monitor which allows me to see how much voltage and current is present and what charge stage is currently underway.  This system is identical to the one I installed on Belle so I am in familiar territory.

I added an steaming light and all around anchor light all in one to the top of the mast.  This involve drilling through the top 10 inches of the solid cap to access the hollow center.  I tried ever so hard to snake a new line through both holes starting at the side access hole at the bottom.  It was not to be.  With great misgivings and with my friend Paul Kelley's help, I removed the monstrous lead counterweight at the mast base. A double row of #10 screws came out of the collar and the ~125 lb bulb was let down with a 4:1 tackle.
At this point I had a strait shot with the snake starting at the top and threading right out the open lower end.
The lead proved way to much for me to re-lift with the tackle so I hauled out an old chain hoist I had in storage and attached it to a brace over head. Ever so slowly I was able to raise the lead into place and screw it back on.  What a job!

I had this masthead light in storage and was able to convert it to all LED and press it into service.  The total current draw is 600 mA.  A three way cable is secured at top and bottom (to prevent slapping. The cable will be routed through the bulkhead and back to a photo cell switch were I will be able to chose from dusk to dawn auto or manual steaming or all around anchor.

This is under the stateroom bed which is sealed with foam, I assume for floatation (not near enough to make a difference).  I hacked my way to the floor where I will install the backing plate for the Dynaplate ground plate.
I mentioned that I was going to have to drill four holes in the floor.  "To let the water out," quipped my friend Paul.  That plays well on a sailors fear of leaks, does it not?

The holes for the 18 inch plate were indexed to the template and drilled oversize to within 1/16 of the other side.

Tyvek tape was placed over the holes and thickened epoxy was pored in to seal the core. After a couple of hours a second coat was of thicker epoxy was worked into the depressed epoxy to bring the core fill up to level and trowel to flush.

A heat lamp was placed at a suitable distance to facilitate overnight drying. Tomorrow I will re-drill the holes and hopefully install with bedding and backing the Dynaplate per Guest's instructions. A #4 cable will be attached to the gold lug and run to the negative side of the battery. A 2 inch copper foil will be extended to a place just below the HF antenna installation to serve as counterpoise.  The 18 inch plate is purported to offer the equivalent of 100 square feet of copper surface.

Solar and battery upgrades redux

I've pretty much had it with the MC4 connectors.  They are very tricky to put on and any miscalculation makes the installation fail.  I measured the voltage on my incoming cable ...Nada.

So I cut those 'darn things off.  Butt splicing works great with a good dose of NO-OX ID to prevent oxidation. Everything is shrink wrap again, this time with black that looks better.  The confused cable mess is much better. 
By the way the voltage out in my garage with ambient light is 15.5 volts.

Believe me, getting three 76 lb batteries secured was no small accomplishment.  But all 228 lbs of them is locked down tight and back on the charger. 

Now, for the solar charge unit and display to come!